Now onto building panels, my first panel includes lights, anti icing & generic engine commands. In the spirit of doing my cockpit on the cheap I decided to use 8x11" adhesive inkjet sheets and photoshop to develop the cockpit panels.
I decided that a black background with white letters would contrast nice without any back lighting. Initially I was interested in picking up a cnc router and engraving plexi, but the cost wasn't in my budget.
Not shown in these pictures is the 4 layers of clearcoat that was applied to the panel to secure the adhesive paper to the panel. I think the effect using this method works well.
Here is a full size pic:

I also wanted to include the *.psd for you to download as a reference for building your own panels







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Acrylic panel paint.
I have used Krylon or PlastiCote on my panels that I get laser engraved. It dries to the touch in 5 minutes and you can apply many coats in a short time span. I recommend you apply a coat of plastic primer first, this will prevent the cracking and blistering.
Regards,
Jason
FlightDeckSoft.com
CNC Alternative - pantograph
I have been examining how to create backlit panels built to my own specifications. To see how the "Pros" create a backlit panel, I ordered a pedestal lighting panel from Open Cockpits. The way they built their panel was to buy 1/8th inch white acrylic (Plexiglas or Perspex are two trade names), paint it, then engrave it. My first order was for white Plexiglas but I specified the kind that transmits 40-50% of the light. I found that to be a little too translucent. I have now ordered another 3 sheets (24x48 inches), but with the specification of passing about 20% of the light. I will be painting and testing it very soon.
Everyone seems to think that they need a CNC machine. Unfortunately, the ten thousand dollars buying one would cost is way out of my league. If anyone buys and tests the Computer Controlled Wood Working machine from Sears ($1900 USD), let me know how it works for you.
I recalled that name badges, plastic desk signs, and the like used to be done with a pantograph engraver. I found one on e-bay for $350, so I have purchased it. I am not sure if it uses a rotary bit or if it is the diamond drag type...but I will have someone modify it to a rotary if it is necessary. From looking at the Open Cockpits panel, it seems to me that a good diamond drag bit will suffice to remove the dark grey or black paint properly. I am still trying to find out what kind of paint is best….I tried an acrylic paint first. It was water based. The instructions on the spray can said to either apply subsequent coats before 4 hours or after 36. I painted a couple of coats the first night, then waited 48 hours, and tried to apply another coat. The first coat then began cracking and blistering, so I do not believe that this is the right paint to use.
If anyone knows of what kind of paint to use to get a light blocking layer on acrylic glass, please let me know….
After I get the samples painted, and get the engraver in, I will do a test and post the results. I guess that the main message of this post is to say that CNC machines are not the only way to engrave acrylic. Do it the old fashion way, with a used pantograph engraving machine…and the project should rock along just fine. I will let you know as I progress.
Jim Beauchamp
Hazel Green, Alabama